Chosen Solution

Hello, I really could use some help with a dryer issue I am experiencing. My Kenmore 11061402311 dryer takes very long to dry. I have almost exhausted the internet resources regarding a solution. I have opened the dryer up and cleaned the lint. I have reattached the dryer vents and used aluminum tape on the joints. There is definitely heat because the clothes are warm. I have been putting the clothes on high heat to bypass the chance that any wetness sensor is affecting the drying times. I put in a kitchen thermometer with a load and it read around 110-115 Fahrenheit. At this point, I suspect the causes are either:

a heating element is at least partially faulty (Can the heating element be at fault even if it is working somewhat?); and/or

a sensor that regulates the maximum heat is faulty and preventing it from getting hotter (While using it on the high heat cycle instead of the auto dry cycle, could a sensor be involved that could affect the high heat cycle temp? I would assume that this cycle would automatically dry at the hottest temp; and/or

I still have the exhaust vents installed wrong. Thank you so much for any help that can be provided.

Hi Justin, One thought is that restricted airflow will slow the drying process down like you’re seeing. There are a couple of ways to check that out; if the dryer is in a space that can be vented, such as a garage where you can open the garage door, then simply disconnect the exhaust vent and let the dryer exhaust into the space. See if that makes a significant difference in the drying time. The other way to check it out is with a tester. There are airflow meters you can buy, but Whirlpool actually has a simple little device that I’ve used before; a piece of cardboard that hangs inside and if there’s sufficient airflow, it will get blown off its hanger. Works great, cheap and reusable. Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. Vent Testing Kit - W11224254 If it dries normally when the exhaust is disconnected or fails the airflow test, then you probably have an obstructed exhaust vent. Depending on how it’s routed and how long the run is, you may have to disassemble it or have someone come in with equipment that can clean it. If that doesn’t help, my next thought would be to open up the back and physically check the heating element. It’s not a complicated device, basically a long coil of wire. Remove the element and examine the wire for any breaks or points where it’s touching the metal casing. An ohmmeter on the two terminals should show very little resistance, something like 20 to 50 Ohms and no continuity between either terminal and the casing.